British Virgin Islands - A Very Special Place in our Hearts

The BVI have always been a special place for Roger and me.  For our honeymoon, we rented our first charter boat in BVI.  At that time, more than 25 years ago, Sunsail was a very small business in Soper's Hole.  Roger had rented what we thought was a massive sailboat. At 35 feet it was a significant step up from the 28 foot sailboat we owned back home in Toronto.  We would be sailing in luxury!  The taxi dropped us off late at night, it was dark and the office was closed, so we didn't know how to find the boat.  Lucky for us, there were only a few boats there and an envelope on the bulletin board with our name on it.  We soon found the boat and a welcoming bottle of rum! 

At the time, Soper's Hole was a quaint little harbour, with a dusty road to the nearest limited provisioning. Today, it is a bustling harbour with all the amenities and Sunsail and Moorings have grown so large that they are now based in Road Town with over 100 sailboats, primarily catamarans, and motor cats.

Our first trip to BVI was a learning experience.  First lesson - do not book a charter during hurricane season.  We were surprised to see very few boats, and all the restaurants were closed.  Hmmm.  Finally someone pointed out to us that it was unusual to see charter boats out during hurricane season.  Second lesson - do not book a charter during hurricane season.  Our neighbours in Florida tell us how hot it is in Marco in the summer months.  The BVI are 1,850 KM south so imagine the temperatures at the end of August.  It was sweltering, and at night, we felt like we were melting in the front cabin even with all the fans blasting.  This is how Cane Garden Bay became coined "Don't Touch Me Bay".  

Lessons learned, over the years we returned many times to charter but typically in mid-February, sharing this island paradise with friends and family who have come to love it as much as we do.  Eventually we bought our own boat, Adventure I, from Sunsail in BVI, allowing us to enjoy the BVI without a schedule. It also allowed us to sail south and explore the many other beautiful Caribbean islands for the past three winter seasons.  

So having travelled up and down the islands this year, it is fitting that we are back in BVI and have the chance to share this with our friends Stephanie and Kevin.  Two years ago, they generously took us on their sailboat from Nanaimo to Saltspring Island and then back to Granville Island in Vancouver.   

This season we have found that generally, the winds have been high.  On Stephanie and Kevin's first day aboard Adventure I,  we were sailing along to North Sound in 22 knot winds, much more than the 14 knot winds they typically sail in. 

After a great sail, we grabbed the mooring ball that we were able to reserve at Bitter End.  We knew we would be arriving late so the reservation gave us peace of mind as the First Come First Serve (FCFS) balls would likely be taken.  

First stop was the Bitter End Yacht Club, and the new boat beach bar, which was built as part of the reconstruction post hurricane Irma.  The boat, named the Reef Sampler, is a fiberglass lobster boat from Maine that the BEYC used for years to haul construction materials and ferry staff and guests.  Reef Sampler was lost at sea when the hurricane struck in 2017, but was found a year later, re-floated and moved to its new beach location.  It's a fun place to hang out as the sun goes down.  

Next we headed over to Saba Rock, also rebuilt since the hurricane.  It is one of the prettiest structures I have seen in a long time.  Built to be hurricane-resistant, the building has V-shaped steel supports and braided turnbuckle cables to withstand high winds.  It's also a popular spot to watch the sunset. 

We set out to Anegada the next day in 25 knot winds, which means we completed the 15 nautical mile sail in record time.  

Anegada is one of my favourite anchorages, with its beautiful turquoise waters.  Fittingly, Stephanie had brought turquoise bathing suits for all of us - Team Turquoise would make its debut at the Soggy Dollar 🩵

Roger was feeling a little under the weather with a cold, so Stephanie, Kevin and I loaded up in the back of the local open air taxi to head over to Loblolly Bay.   This is an inexpensive way to travel across the island.  However, for those so inclined, there are motorbikes and now Mokes for rent as well.  

That night we had lobster at Potter's by the Sea, followed by dancing.  Even Pirate was busting some moves.  The DJ saw her and started playing "Who Let the Dogs Out".  

We spent an unusually wavy night in the anchorage in Anegada so decided to head out early the next day for Cane Garden Bay (Don't Touch Me Bay).  In north swells, this can be a very uncomfortable anchorage, with surfers taking advantage of the waves that come in there.  However, the wind direction and rating on the Navily app was favorable so we were good to go.  It was another quick broad reach from Anegada to Cane Garden Bay.  We went ashore for lunch at Myett's and somehow didn't make it back to the boat until sunset.  It happens 😁

The next morning, after an unsuccessful 7:00 a.m attempt to reserve a Boaty Ball in Great Harbour, Jost van Dyke, we headed out early so we could hopefully find one of the few FCFS balls.  Our timing was perfect, and we happily snagged a mooring ball.  Next stop - Foxy's, the bar that he set up in the shade of a Tamarind Tree more than 50 years ago.   Roger and I have spent Old Year's Night at Foxy's a couple of times and that's a crazy experience.  There is live music throughout the night and people come from all the surrounding islands to enjoy the festivities.  Boats line the entire shore, and hundreds of others anchor in the bay that normally holds only about 50 boats.  Even though we have learned to put out all our fenders, it is not an experience for the faint of heart.  Apparently the theme for 2025/2026 was Pirates of the Caribbean.  I can't believe we missed it!  

Unfortunately we did not see Foxy on this visit, but he is a local legend that has been welcoming sailors with his stories for the past 50 years. Kenny Cheney is a regular and mentions Foxy in several of his songs.  Kevin found a hammock and took the opportunity to chill in advance of our afternoon at Soggy Dollar.

We dinghied over to White Bay, braving the seas from  the high winds.  The mooring field was packed with the brave souls who had decided to anchor their 50 ft catamarans there despite the advice of their charter company.  

After pulling the dinghy up high on the beach, Team turquoise hit the frozen drink bar!

The next day, after snorkeling the caves, and hiking Norman Island, Team Turquoise hit the Willy T.  

We all climbed over the no jumping or diving sign and jumped off the back together, with Roger's signature back flip drawing so much attention that we got a big cheer from the crowd when we arrived back on the upper deck from our quick 'dip'.

The next day, Little Harbour in Peter Island, provided some much needed down time, snorkeling with the turtles and rays.  Kevin was the turtle whisperer successfully capturing underwater videos of these majestic prehistoric creatures.  

There were numerous reef fish and a new find - the scrawled cowfish.  It's quite interesting looking with two short 'horns' extending from above the eyes.  This is an underwater pic that I captured with my iPhone.

I also managed to get a video of this particularly hairy golden fish that was also swimming in the bay. 

Everyone had an awesome time, and we created even more special memories of BVI. Stay tuned as we have really crazy stuff to come before we head home!