Time to Move On - Headed to Guadeloupe

Maybe it was the Pirate Ship coming through the mist.   Maybe it was the day of rain in St. Pierre with Mt Pelee, which erupted in 1902, nowhere to be seen through the low lying clouds.   Either way, we knew it was time to move on.   

We went to bed early knowing that it would be a 3:30 a.m. start in order to get to Guadeloupe in time to get a mooring ball in Les Saintes.  Unfortunately, neither of us got much sleep as the anchorage was quite rolly.  It did mean however, that we were happy to get going.  Roger, Pirate and I donned our safety gear, and put on the My Team Talks "the marriage saver" headsets.  We put the main up while on the mooring ball as it is often a chore to get the back of the main to clear the lazy jacks.  Then I headed to the bow to let the last remaining line off the mooring.  Unfortunately it had embedded itself underneath the iron ring through which we tie the line.  I was able to explain the problem to Roger over the headset, and he came forward to help out.  After a good 15 minutes we were able to resolve the problem and, fortunately for us, that did not entail cutting the line.  

Unlike the previous day, the weather was clear with stars lighting up the night sky and a crescent moon behind us.  As we were still protected by the island, we started out with light seas, however when we cleared the headland, the waves and wind started to build.  Winds ranged from 18 to 22 knots.  In the dark, we couldn't actually see how big the waves were, so we welcomed the rising sun. 

Roger, as always, was pumped about the big winds and seas.  We had a reefed main and jib, but still managed to cruise along between 8 and 12 knots.  Roger would shout with enthusiasm every time he hit a high number on the knot meter. 

It is always interesting trying to keep yourself fueled up on a long passage, especially in big seas.   We made tea before we left that morning and filled up a thermos.  We were also able to make toast with PB & J as we were heading out at 4 am.  By the time we reached Dominica, the waves were subsiding and we were more than ready for something else to eat.  With the calm seas, I was able to head below and heat up the ham and cheese egg bites I'd made the day before, and I even made a couple of cappuccino's with the reprieve behind the island.   

As we've been sailing this year, Pirate has been a little less comfortable with the actual sailing, often panting and holding her tail in.  As a result, I have become somewhat consoler in chief, lying with her on the cockpit cushions.  So Pirate was very excited to cruise along in the lee of the island before we headed out again to the open ocean between Dominica and Guadeloupe, our destination.  

Nine and a half hours after leaving, we sailed into Les Saintes, a small set of islands to the south of Guadeloupe.  Our plan was to stay at Ile de Cabrit, the national park where there is an easy beach to take Pirate ashore.  However, it looked like the mooring balls were taken, so we went to Pain du Sucre just across the way.  

We took Pirate ashore to do her business however, there was no need to bother with check-in formalities.  The French islands now have an on-line check-in/check-out portal, like SailClear, but specific to the French Islands.  With the electronic documents, it is no longer necessary to check-in or check-out on shore unless you are headed to a non-French island.  Also, they do not require you to declare the dog, so the whole process is so much easier.  The other islands still require formal check-out documents in order to enter into the next port so we will need to get these and a veterinary health certificate in Guadeloupe before we head to Antigua. 

After a long day on the water, we were happy to get in the water for a swim and snorkel along the shore of Pain du Sucre.   

While in Les Saintes, Roger sent out a note to the Salty Dawgs (a sailing association we belong to) in Guadelope to see if anyone wanted to meet for lunch.  One couple from Annapolis decided to join us.  It's a little like blind dating as you don't really know who you are going to meet.  However, we all have something in common and conversation always flows easily.  

After a nice evening at anchor, we set sail by 8:30 the next morning to Malendure, on 'mainland' Guadeloupe.  We had another beautiful sail with winds between 20 and 24 knots, and 5-6 foot waves.  Adventure I seems to thrive in this weather, clocking along at 10 plus knots.  Here is a quick video of sailing in those conditions. 

Not everyone is happy in these sailing conditions.  Just as we were reaching the mainland of Guadelope, we saw another boat turn around after they started out from under the lee of the island. Roger was able to identify the boat on AIS, and it was Wally One.  Wally One was the first luxury yacht designed by Wally Yachts back in 1991. Wally revolutionized yacht design and built some of the most beautiful sailing vessels in the world. With a Wally, control lines are all hidden below the deck, making for a clean and uncluttered boat. Now this is the norm with most builders.   We last saw Wally One in Capri, Italy several years ago.  The 82 foot yacht had a complete refit in 2022, and is now available for charter in the Caribbean.  However she did not seem to like the salty sailing conditions we were enjoying and so she huddled against the shoreline.  

 

After we got behind the island of Guadelope, the winds and waves subsided, and we had a nice calm sail to arrive in Malendure, home of the Jacques Cousteau underwater marine reserve.  We were looking forward to some amazing snorkeling, however, we didn't anticipate spending 2 hours trying to get anchored.  While some boaters simply drop their hook and relax, we always test to make sure we have a good hold.  This entails putting the engine in reverse and amping up the rpms to make sure the anchor can withstand high winds.  After 5 tries, with the anchor dragging each time, we gave up and moved to a completely different location in the bay and found a spot where the holding was much better.

We then headed off in our dinghy for some snorkeling in the marine park and we were not disappointed.  The coral is in good condition, and there are lots of beautiful tropical fish to be seen.  I find underwater photography is a challenge, however here is one photo from my iPhone 16. 

Back at Adventure I we were treated to a beautiful rainbow ...

and a glorious sunset over Pigeon Island, where the marine park is located...

We stayed an extra day to get the veterinary health certificate, but we were happy to move on early the next morning after a very rolly, sleepless night at anchor.  Fortunately, our next stop, Deshaies was only a few hours away and we were able to find a free ball to tie to.   The anchorage was pleasantly calm and we spent a relaxing day before heading out the next day to Antigua, where we are looking forward to meeting up with our friends, Al & Pierina.   

As the sun set we were serenaded on trumpet by our Canadian neighbor who had noticed our flag.  A fitting end to our time in the French islands.