Martinique is Known as the Island of Flowers but we Discovered Much More

Martinique is a French island known as The Island of Flowers.  It is quite hilly and very lush.  There are numerous beautiful beaches as well, as we discovered on a 4 hr return hike along the trail from Sainte Anne to Grande Anse des Salines.   While dogs are not allowed on the beach in Martinique, we gave Pirate a quick cool down swim on one of the secluded beaches that had no bathers in sight.  

We met a number of other hikers along the way, and of course, a few of the local crawley critters like these crabs scampering sideways into their holes.   I think the people on the large nude beach we passed may want to take care 😉

Back on the water, there was lots of activity.   A fleet of 20 of the local Martinique sailboats, called Yoles, were out racing.  Every Sunday, the harbour is closed down to boat traffic while the Yoles compete for 1st, 2nd and 3rd place plastic trophies, or really bragging rights.  The wooden boats, which average 36 feet in length, are all sponsored and arrive on long flat bed trucks.  

Yoles are traditional sailing vessels once used for fishing. The boat has a huge sail so it requires a ton of physical effort and agility.  It is long and very narrow as it was traditionally made from a hollowed out tree.   As a result, the boat will tip over almost immediately if the crew does not work as a team and act quickly. 

The masts are made from bamboo wrapped in fiberglass or carbon fiber (tradition, mixed with just a little high tech). There is no fixed rudder.  Instead, they have a long oar (paddle) which sits in a notch on the transom (back of the boat). The oar is so heavy it requires 2 guys to carry it to the boat.  In heavy air, it takes 3 big guys to haul on the oar and paddle the long unstable boat through the tack.  Meanwhile, athletic men and a few athletic women are dangling from the long wooden poles sticking way out the side in order to try to keep the boat upright.  If they don't move their weight quickly and the person on the mainsheet is not fast with the release, the boat will heel over and sink instantly. The flipped boat and soggy crew is then towed back to the beach to the amusement of the many spectators. 

The funniest part is the person on the lee side who is paddling with a bailing bucket. The one or two people tasked with the near constant job of bailing, are also allowed to use their bailer as a little added propulsion when they are desperate for extra speed. 

This video captures a mark rounding, with colour commentary by Roger.  Watch boat number 8 do a masterful job of passing two other boats on the rounding. 

The second Sunday, we went to the race launch/departure beach to join in the festivities.  Sixteen boats were competing with about 15 people per boat given the high winds.  The boats also have an entire team supporting them as it takes about 30 people to slide the heavy boat into and out of the water.   The result was a beach full of people all cheering on their team. Many were also consuming their share of Caribbean libations.  

After the finish of the first race, we went to watch the start for the second.   All the sailors were milling around, hanging with their teammates, getting sandwiches and drinks in between races.   Many of the racers were at the ready by their boat to make sure it didn't tip over on the beach while they waited for the next race to begin. 

Finally, they were ready to head back to the water for the second and final race of the day.

The race has a Le Mans start with all the boats lined up side by side just off the beach waiting for the starting gun. It is absolute chaos, with sails flapping, masts crashing into each other and teams trying to keep their boats from sailing away before the starting gun.  It got even crazier when one team accidentally jumped the gun and everyone had to wait for them to sail back to the beach, get the boat turned around and get back into the starting position. Naturally, the offending team received much jeering from their competitors. 

Despite the close and highly competitive racing, Roger was amazed at how respectful the competitors are to each other. There is little yelling and nothing but shoulder slapping, fancy hand shakes and fist bumping before and after the race. We North American sail boat racers could certainly learn a thing or two from these competitors. 

Like any regatta, the party lasted well into the night.  We could still hear the music at 1:30 in the morning despite the numerous rain squalls and showers passing through. 

As the sun sets in Martinique, we are always treated to some unique spectacle....

The full moon rising below in Sainte Anne:

 or the sun setting through the rain and mist at Le Marin:

and sunsets in Grande Anse d'Arlet:

After enjoying the sunset, we sometimes head out to enjoy a wonderful meal ashore. In Le Marin, we had an amazing meal of Raclette which features two of Roger's favorite food groups, bread and cheese.

You know it is time to head out to another country when the proprietor of the local bakery knows Roger by name.  Our next stop is Guadeloupe, where Roger will continue on his quest for the best baguettes and croissants in the Islands.