A Giant Aquarium

We left Deshaies in 14 to 18 knot winds with a double reefed main and a full jib, as it was gusting up to 30 knots (a little beyond the comfort zone for many sailors).  It was a beautiful sail with calm seas as we were on the protected western shore of Guadelope. As you can see below, Pirate was enjoying it too.   

After just a couple of hours we arrived at our next anchorage near Pigeon Island.  This is home to the Jacques Cousteau Underwater Park, and is a very popular spot for both snorkelling and diving.  It is a protected park, so fishing is strictly forbidden. 

We dropped our anchor in 20' of water and let out the prescribed 140' of chain (7 to 1).  After getting settled at anchor, we quickly got ourselves organized and headed over in the dinghy to Pigeon Island to go snorkelling.  We brought Pirate and the Pup Plank so that she could be part of the excursion.  When we got in the water it was unbelievable.  It was just like swimming in a giant aquarium.  There were huge schools of Black Durgon and Blue Tangs, some very large Stoplight Parrotfish, Squirrelfish,  and some that you don’t see as often: a French Juvenile Angelfish and a Porcupine Fish.  I also spotted a Sharpnose Puffer that I have never seen before.  He blended beautifully with the colourful coral around him.  The coral was abundant with lots of yellow tube sponges.  Without a doubt, the best snorkelling I have done in many years, and a highlight of the trip so far.  

After a beautiful sunset the next day poured down rain, and the winds became shifty resulting in some interesting altercations at anchor.  Typically boats all swing in the same direction into the wind at anchor, but with swirling winds coming down off the volcanic mountains they can sometimes be facing opposite directions which can lead to tenuous situations if they did not anchor a sufficient distance apart.  The 2 anchored boats in the picture below came within 10 to 15 feet of each other, which is not good when you are talking expensive plastic boats in high winds.  There was lots of yelling, waving of hands and colourful French language while they sorted it out. 

Despite the continued windy conditions, our plan was to set out the next day to Les Saintes, a 3 hour sail to a set of small islands south of Guadelope.  Our friends Deb and Tony had been there for several days holed up with the windy conditions, waiting for a more suitable weather window for northbound travel.  Unfortunately the conditions in the anchorage in Les Saintes were quite rolly compared to the anchorage we were leaving, but we were keen to see Deb and Tony before they headed northbound, so we set out the next morning knowing the weather could be a little 'salty' as they say.